Lacrosse Stringing Guide: Patterns, Mesh Types & Pocket Setup

Coated nylon mesh that holds its shape and provides the most consistent release in lacrosse. The most popular choice for experienced players at every position. Takes longer to break in but requires the least maintenance once set. Can feel stiff in cold weather.

Best for: Advanced players, attack, midfield, anyone who wants consistent release

Materials: Coated nylon mesh, nylon sidewall string, shooting string

Uncoated nylon mesh that is flexible and forgiving. The easiest mesh type to string, making it ideal for beginners. Breaks in almost immediately but bags out over time and becomes inconsistent, especially in wet or cold weather.

Best for: Beginners, youth players, anyone who wants maximum catchability

Materials: Uncoated nylon mesh, nylon sidewall string, shooting string

A middle-ground mesh that offers more structure than soft mesh but is easier to break in than hard mesh. The most versatile option and a great default choice for high school players who want balance between catchability and release consistency.

Best for: High school players, midfielders, anyone wanting balance of catchability and consistency

Materials: Medium-coated nylon mesh, nylon sidewall string, shooting string

Engineered mesh with built-in channels and pre-marked stringing holes. Designed to deliver a consistent, broken-in feel from day one. StringKing 4D uses a 4-fiber construction for durability. Throne Fiber uses a wax-coated blend. ECD Hero uses a proprietary semi-hard treatment. All are more expensive but offer near-zero break-in time.

Best for: Players who want instant consistency, anyone who struggles with traditional stringing

Materials: Engineered performance mesh (brand-specific), included laces and shooters

The original lacrosse stringing style: four leather runners laced together with nylon cross-strings. Offers the most customizable pocket of any stringing style — you can shape it to exact specifications. Highest skill ceiling and highest maintenance. Prized by purists for the unique feel and aesthetic. Requires regular upkeep as leather stretches and shrinks with weather changes.

Best for: Experienced stringers, purists, players who want maximum customization

Materials: 4 leather runners, nylon cross-lace string, sidewall string, shooting string, traditional knot cord

Large-diamond mesh designed specifically for goalie heads (10-12 inches wide). The larger diamond pattern allows for a deeper pocket that helps goalies secure saves and control outlet passes. Only used by goalies — not legal or practical for field player heads.

Best for: Goalies at all levels

Materials: Six-diamond goalie mesh, thick nylon sidewall string, goalie shooting string

Complete step-by-step instructions for stringing a hard mesh mid-pocket, the standard pocket for most lacrosse players.

Best for: Attack, midfield, experienced players

Materials: Hard mesh piece, 2 nylon sidewall strings (36" each), 1 top string (36"), 2-3 shooting strings, scissors, lighter, needle (optional)

1. 1. Prep the mesh: Soak the hard mesh in warm water for 5 minutes to make it more pliable. Stretch it gently in all directions. This makes stringing significantly easier.
2. 2. Attach the top string: Fold the top row of mesh diamonds over the scoop of the head. Use the '9-diamond top string' technique — thread the top string through the back of the scoop hole, through 2-3 mesh diamonds, and back through the next scoop hole. Repeat across the entire scoop, keeping even tension. Tie off with a double knot at the last hole.
3. 3. String the left sidewall: Starting at the top, thread the sidewall string through the first sidewall hole from the outside in. Loop through 1-2 mesh diamonds, then back through the next sidewall hole. Use the 'interlock' or 'single' knot at each hole for consistent tension. For a mid-pocket, skip 0-1 diamonds between sidewall holes at the top, then gradually skip more diamonds toward the throat to create the pocket depth.
4. 4. String the right sidewall: Mirror the left sidewall exactly. Count your diamond skips carefully — both sides must match or the pocket will be off-center. Use the same knot type on both sides.
5. 5. Create the pocket depth: For a mid-pocket, the widest part of the pocket should be roughly 1/3 to 1/2 of the way down the head from the scoop. Adjust by tightening or loosening the sidewall strings in the middle section. More skipped diamonds = deeper pocket.
6. 6. Attach shooting strings: Thread 2 shooting strings horizontally across the top of the head, within 4 inches of the scoop (NCAA/NFHS rule). Use straight-across or slight-curve patterns. The top shooter should be the tightest; the bottom shooter slightly looser. This creates a consistent release channel.
7. 7. Trim and seal all strings: Cut all hanging strings to no more than 2 inches past the knot (NFHS/NCAA rule). Use a lighter to gently melt the nylon ends to prevent fraying. Do NOT burn or discolor the strings.
8. 8. Shape the pocket: Place a lacrosse ball in the pocket where you want the deepest point. Use a pocket screw or the butt end of a pen to push the ball into the mesh. Tie a rubber band around the head to hold the ball in place overnight.
9. 9. Test for legality: Place a ball in the pocket. Hold the stick horizontally at eye level. Look from the side — the top of the ball must be visible above the bottom edge of the sidewall. If it's not visible, tighten the sidewalls. Also test the 'roll-out': tilt the stick forward — the ball should roll out freely.
10. 10. Break in the pocket: Wall ball is the best break-in method. Throw 200+ passes against a wall, focusing on catching and cradling. The mesh will soften and the pocket will settle into its final shape over 1-2 weeks of regular use.

Complete step-by-step instructions for stringing the classic 4-leather traditional lacrosse pocket.

Best for: Experienced stringers, purists, players who want maximum pocket customization

Materials: 4 leather runners (8-10" each), nylon cross-lace string (3-4 yards), 2 sidewall strings, 2-3 shooting strings, traditional knot cord, leather conditioner, scissors, lighter

1. 1. Condition the leather: Apply a thin coat of leather conditioner to each runner and work it in with your fingers. This makes the leather pliable and prevents cracking. Let sit for 15 minutes before stringing.
2. 2. Attach the top string: Thread the top string through the back of the scoop holes. This anchors the entire pocket structure. Use a strong nylon string and tie off with tight double knots at each end.
3. 3. Position the four leather runners: Thread each leather runner through the top string at evenly spaced positions across the head. The runners should be parallel and evenly spaced — use the head's sidewall holes as guides for spacing.
4. 4. Anchor leathers to the throat: Thread each leather runner down through the corresponding holes at the throat of the head. Pull each leather to the same tension — this determines the initial pocket depth. Tie off with tight knots.
5. 5. Attach sidewall anchors: Thread sidewall string through the outermost holes on each side. The sidewalls frame the traditional pocket and prevent the leathers from shifting sideways.
6. 6. Begin cross-lacing: Starting from the top, weave the nylon cross-lace over the first leather, under the second, over the third, under the fourth (or your preferred pattern). Each cross-lace row should create small diamond shapes between the leathers.
7. 7. Continue cross-lacing down the head: Work your way down the head row by row. Keep consistent tension on each row. The tension of the cross-lace is what shapes the pocket — tighter at the top for a defined channel, looser in the middle for pocket depth.
8. 8. Create the pocket: For a mid-pocket, make the cross-lace slightly looser (larger diamonds) in the middle 1/3 of the head. For a high pocket, keep the top rows looser. For a low pocket, keep the bottom rows looser.
9. 9. Add shooting strings: String 2-3 shooting strings across the top, within 4 inches of the scoop. Traditional pockets often use fewer shooting strings because the cross-lace already provides significant hold and whip.
10. 10. Condition and shape: Apply another thin coat of leather conditioner. Place a ball in the pocket and wrap the head with a towel or rubber bands. Let sit overnight. The leather will conform to the ball's shape as it dries.
11. 11. Final adjustments: After the first session, check the pocket depth for legality. Adjust cross-lace tension in specific rows to fine-tune the pocket. Traditional pockets require more ongoing adjustment than mesh — expect to re-tension the cross-lace every few weeks.
12. 12. Maintenance schedule: Re-condition the leather every 2-3 weeks. After rain, dry the pocket with a towel and apply conditioner. In dry cold weather, condition more frequently to prevent cracking. Check cross-lace tension before every game.

Step-by-step instructions for stringing a soft mesh pocket — the easiest lacrosse stringing pattern.

Best for: Beginners, youth players, first-time stringers

Materials: Soft mesh piece, 2 nylon sidewall strings (36" each), 1 top string (36"), 2 shooting strings, scissors, lighter

1. 1. Prep the mesh: Unlike hard mesh, soft mesh doesn't need soaking. Simply stretch it gently with your hands to remove any creases from packaging.
2. 2. Attach the top string: Fold the top row of mesh diamonds over the scoop. Thread the top string through the back of the first scoop hole, through 2 mesh diamonds, and back through the next scoop hole. Use a simple '9-diamond' pattern. Keep tension even but not overly tight — soft mesh will stretch with use.
3. 3. String the left sidewall: Thread the sidewall string through the first hole from outside in. Loop through 1-2 mesh diamonds, then through the next hole. Use a simple 'single' knot — no need for interlocks with soft mesh. For a mid-pocket, keep the top 4-5 holes tight (1 diamond between holes), then gradually skip more diamonds in the middle section to create depth.
4. 4. String the right sidewall: Mirror the left side exactly. With soft mesh, slight asymmetry is more forgiving than with hard mesh, but try to match both sides for the best results.
5. 5. Create the pocket: The natural sag of soft mesh will create a pocket automatically. Place a ball where you want the deepest point and gently press it into the mesh to shape the pocket. Soft mesh holds this shape immediately — no overnight setting needed.
6. 6. Add shooting strings: Thread 2 shooting strings across the top within 4 inches of the scoop. With soft mesh, shooting strings are critical for preventing the pocket from 'bagging out' over time. Keep them relatively tight.
7. 7. Trim and seal: Cut hanging strings to 2 inches or less. Melt the ends with a lighter. Soft mesh strings can loosen over time, so make sure your knots are extra tight.
8. 8. Test for legality: Same test as all pockets — place ball in pocket, hold stick horizontally, check that the top of the ball is visible above the bottom edge of the sidewall.
9. 9. Break in immediately: Soft mesh is game-ready within 1-2 days. 50 wall ball passes will settle the pocket. Check the pocket depth after the first session — soft mesh tends to stretch more than expected.
10. 10. Monitor and maintain: Soft mesh bags out faster than any other mesh type. Check pocket depth weekly and tighten sidewall strings as needed. In wet conditions, the mesh will absorb water and sag — dry it with a towel after rain.

Step-by-step instructions for stringing a goalie six-diamond pocket, the standard for lacrosse goalies at every level.

Best for: Goalies at all levels

Materials: Six-diamond goalie mesh, 2 thick nylon sidewall strings (42" each), 1 top string (42"), 1-2 shooting strings, scissors, lighter

1. 1. Prep the mesh: Stretch the six-diamond mesh gently. Goalie mesh is thicker and stiffer than field mesh. Soaking in warm water for 5 minutes can help with initial flexibility.
2. 2. Attach the top string: Goalie heads have more scoop holes than field heads. Thread the top string through each scoop hole, weaving through 2-3 mesh diamonds between each hole. Use a consistent 9-diamond or 10-diamond top string pattern. Keep even tension across the entire width — this is critical for goalie sticks because the wider head means any tension imbalance will create an off-center pocket.
3. 3. String the left sidewall: Start at the top and work down. Goalie sidewalls use the same interlock knots as field sticks, but the spacing is wider. For a standard goalie pocket, skip 1 diamond between the first 3-4 holes at the top (keeps the top tight for throwing), then skip 2-3 diamonds in the middle section to create pocket depth.
4. 4. String the right sidewall: Mirror the left side exactly. The symmetry of the sidewalls is critical for a goalie — an off-center pocket will cause the ball to release at an angle on outlet passes.
5. 5. Add a single shooting string or nylon: Many goalies use just 1 shooting string across the top, within 4 inches of the scoop. Some prefer a straight nylon cord instead of a cotton shooting string for a more direct release on outlet passes. Experiment with what feels best for your throwing motion.
6. 6. Shape the pocket: Place a ball in the pocket and press it into the mesh. Unlike field sticks, goalies can have the ball completely below the sidewall — the pocket depth rule does not apply to goalkeeper crosses per NCAA Rule 1-19.
7. 7. Trim and seal: Cut all strings to 2 inches or less past the knot. Melt the nylon ends. Goalie strings tend to take more punishment from shots, so make sure all knots are extra secure.
8. 8. Test the throw: The most important test for a goalie stick is how it throws. Hit a wall with 20-30 outlet passes. The ball should release cleanly from the same spot every time. If the ball 'hangs' or releases inconsistently, adjust the sidewall tension.
9. 9. Break in with saves: Have a teammate shoot on you for 20-30 minutes. The impact of shots will naturally shape the pocket around the ball. The six-diamond mesh will soften and settle into its final shape within a week of regular practice.

The deepest point of the pocket sits in the upper 1/3 of the head. The ball sits high and releases quickly, making this the preferred pocket for attackmen who need fast shots and quick releases under pressure. String a high pocket by keeping the top 3-4 sidewall knots tight (1 diamond between holes) and gradually loosening in the upper-middle section.

Best for: Attackmen, players who prioritize quick release over ball security

The deepest point sits in the middle of the head. The most versatile pocket placement and the most common in lacrosse. Good for all positions, especially midfielders who need to both dodge and shoot. String a mid-pocket by keeping the top 4-5 sidewall knots tight and creating depth in the middle 1/3 of the head.

Best for: Midfielders, LSMs, any player who wants balance of hold and release

The deepest point sits in the lower 1/3 of the head, near the throat. Maximum ball security — the ball is cradled low where defenders have the hardest time reaching it. Preferred by players who dodge through contact frequently. String a low pocket by keeping the top half of the sidewalls tight and creating significant depth near the bottom 3-4 holes.

Best for: Defensemen carrying the ball, players who dodge through heavy contact, FOGOs (for ball retention after the draw)

A single nylon string runs down the center of the pocket, creating a narrow channel. This provides the tightest ball guidance and the most consistent release, but can make catches feel 'tight' if the channel is too narrow. Best for players who want maximum accuracy on shots. To string: After attaching the top string and sidewalls, weave a single nylon string from the scoop down through the center diamonds to the throat, pulling tighter than the sidewalls.

Best for: Attackmen, precision shooters, players who want maximum accuracy

Two nylon strings run parallel down the center of the pocket, creating a moderate-width channel. The most popular channel style in lacrosse — it provides good ball guidance while still allowing some 'slop' on catches. To string: Weave two nylon strings parallel through the center diamonds, about 2-3 diamonds apart. Both strings should be slightly tighter than the sidewalls but not as tight as a 1-string channel.

Best for: Most players, midfielders, good balance of accuracy and catchability

Three nylon strings create a wider channel that allows the ball more freedom to move. Best for beginners who prioritize catching over shot precision. The wider channel makes the stick very forgiving on catches but provides less consistent release direction. To string: Weave three parallel strings through the center diamonds, spaced 1-2 diamonds apart. Keep moderate tension — tighter than sidewalls but with some give.

Best for: Beginners, defensive midfielders, players who prioritize catching over shooting

The standard shooting string configuration: 2-3 horizontal strings run straight across the top of the head within 4 inches of the scoop. The top string is tightest, creating the most 'hold' and whip. Each subsequent string is slightly looser. This is the default for 90% of lacrosse players and the easiest to string and adjust.

Best for: All players, all positions, the safe default

1. 1. Thread a shooting string through the left sidewall at the top hole (within 4 inches of scoop).
2. 2. Weave the string horizontally through the mesh diamonds, keeping it straight across.
3. 3. Thread through the right sidewall and tie off with a double knot.
4. 4. Repeat for 1-2 more shooting strings below the first, each slightly looser.
5. 5. Trim all strings to 2 inches or less past the knot. Melt nylon ends.

An off-center shooting string configuration where the strings are staggered or angled rather than perfectly horizontal. Creates a slightly different release point that some attackmen prefer for specific shooting angles. The key rule: the strings must still be within 4 inches of the scoop and cannot form a U or V shape.

Best for: Experienced attackmen who want a specific release angle

1. 1. Thread the first shooting string through the left sidewall but offset it slightly lower on one side.
2. 2. Weave across the mesh at a slight angle (not more than 15 degrees from horizontal).
3. 3. Thread through the right sidewall and tie off.
4. 4. Add a second string parallel to the first, maintaining the slight angle.
5. 5. Test the release — the ball should come off the same spot consistently. Adjust the angle until the release feels right.
6. 6. Trim and seal all strings.

All shooting strings must be located within 4 inches of the top of the crosse. This rule does not apply to goalkeeper crosses. (NCAA Rule 1-19, NFHS)

U-shaped and V-shaped shooting string configurations are illegal. Shooting strings must run approximately horizontally across the head.

All hanging strings (sidewalls, shooting strings, etc.) must not exceed 2 inches from the tie-off point. Trim and seal all string ends after stringing. (NCAA, NFHS)

The pocket is illegal if the top surface of a lacrosse ball, when placed in the pocket, is below the bottom edge of the side wall. This rule does not apply to goalkeeper crosses. (NCAA Rule 1-19)

The use of pull strings or any mechanism designed to alter the depth of the pocket during play is illegal. (NCAA Rule 1-19)

Holes or gaps in the pocket mesh must not exceed 1.68 inches in diameter (roughly the size of a golf ball). Added in 2023 to prevent stringing techniques that trap the ball. (NFHS Rule 1-7-1)

Not more than one sidewall string on each side is allowed. (NCAA Rule 1-19)

Lacrosse tape touching any part of the plastic head is illegal. Tape is only permitted on the shaft. (NCAA, NFHS)

For faceoffs, the top 6 inches of the shaft below the head must have tape or a covering of a contrasting color to the head, gloves, and shaft. (NCAA Rule 4-3-b-16)

An illegal crosse carries a 1-3 minute non-releasable personal foul. If a goal was scored with the illegal stick, the goal is disallowed. For correctable issues (hanging strings, missing end cap), no time-serving penalty — just fix it. (NCAA Rule 5-9)

The pocket depth rule and the shooting string 4-inch rule do not apply to goalkeeper crosses. Goalies are also not required to wear shoulder/arm pads. (NCAA Rules 1-19, 1-23)

The webbing that forms the pocket. Choose hard, soft, semi-hard, performance, or six-diamond goalie mesh based on your needs. Cost: $10-15 for standard mesh, $30-50 for performance mesh.

Nylon string that attaches the mesh to the sides of the head. You need 2 pieces, typically 36-42 inches each. Most mesh kits include these. Cost: $3-5.

Nylon string that attaches the mesh to the scoop of the head. Typically 36 inches. Cost: $2-3.

Cotton or nylon strings that run horizontally across the top of the pocket. Usually included with mesh kits. Cost: $2-4 each.

Sharp scissors for cutting nylon strings. Dedicated stringing scissors are ideal because nylon dulls blades quickly. Cost: $5-10.

Used to melt and seal the cut ends of nylon strings to prevent fraying. Any standard lighter works. Cost: $1-2.

A small tool for pushing mesh through tight holes and adjusting string tension. Some stringers use a lacrosse ball or pen instead. Cost: $5-10.

A stringing needle can help thread nylon through tight mesh holes, especially useful for traditional pockets. Cost: $3-5.

Place a lacrosse ball in the deepest part of the pocket. Wrap rubber bands around the head to hold the ball in place. Leave overnight or for 24 hours. This shapes the pocket around the ball and speeds up break-in significantly.

The best break-in method. Throw 200+ passes against a wall, catching and cradling each time. The repeated impact of catching naturally softens the mesh and shapes the pocket. Aim for 15-20 minutes of wall ball daily during the break-in period.

Using the butt end of your shaft or a pocket mallet, gently pound the mesh where you want the deepest point. This helps soften hard mesh and accelerate break-in. Don't overdo it — you can create weak spots in the mesh.

Soak a hard mesh pocket in warm (not hot) water for 5-10 minutes, then play wall ball while the mesh is damp. The water softens the coating and the catching action shapes the pocket. Never use hot water — it can warp the mesh.

Check sidewall tension weekly. Tighten any loose knots. If the pocket starts to bag out, tighten the bottom 2-3 sidewall holes. In cold weather, the mesh may stiffen — 5 minutes of wall ball before games will soften it. Rain has minimal effect on broken-in hard mesh.

Check pocket depth before every game — soft mesh bags out faster than any other type. Tighten sidewall strings frequently. After rain, dry the mesh with a towel immediately — soft mesh absorbs water and sags. In cold weather, soft mesh becomes floppy and unreliable. Consider switching to semi-hard or hard mesh for varsity play.

Apply leather conditioner every 2-3 weeks. After rain, towel-dry immediately and apply conditioner. In dry cold weather, condition weekly to prevent cracking. Check cross-lace tension before every game. Re-tension any loose rows. Traditional pockets require the most upkeep but reward you with unmatched feel.

Very low maintenance. Check the top lace for fraying occasionally. StringKing 4D and Throne Fiber are engineered to maintain their shape. If the channel starts to open up, tighten the sidewalls slightly. These meshes are the most weather-resistant options available.

For any mesh type: Towel-dry the pocket immediately after playing in rain. Do NOT use a hair dryer or heat source — air dry only. For soft mesh, check and tighten sidewalls after the pocket dries. For traditional, apply leather conditioner after drying.

Hard mesh may stiffen in temperatures below 40°F — warm it up with 5-10 minutes of wall ball before games. Soft mesh becomes unreliable in cold weather — consider a backup stick with semi-hard or hard mesh. Traditional leather shrinks in dry cold — condition more frequently and check pocket depth before games.

Tighten the bottom 2-3 sidewall knots. This pulls the pocket up and reduces depth without restringing. Takes 2 minutes.

Tighten or loosen the shooting strings. The top shooter controls the 'hold' — tighter = more whip, looser = faster release. Takes 1-2 minutes per string.

If you have a 1-string or 2-string channel, tighten the channel strings slightly. If you don't have channel strings, adding one can dramatically improve consistency without a full restring.

If the mesh has visible holes, tears, or significant fraying, it's time for a restring. Patched mesh will never perform consistently and may fail during a game.

If you've tightened the sidewalls multiple times and the pocket keeps bagging out, the mesh has lost its structural integrity. This is common with soft mesh after 3-6 months of heavy use. Time to restring with fresh mesh.

Moving from a high pocket to a low pocket (or vice versa) requires a full restring. You can't change pocket placement by adjusting existing strings — the sidewall diamond-skips determine placement and those are set during stringing.

Most lacrosse players should restring every 3-6 months for optimal performance, even if the mesh looks fine. The nylon stretches and weakens over time, and the pocket shape gradually shifts. A fresh stringing restores consistency and performance.